Plenum Pull

From Scott Fabre’s Facebook Info (

Okay the first thing I do in removing the plenum is access this hose
The next thing I do is use this syringe that you see to suck out some of the coolant that runs through the throttle body
Here I’m using 1/4 inch driver to plug the hose
Removing the front of the bellows from the air cleaner stack
Removing the Bellows from the throttle body

Next use a 7 mm to remove the throttle cover
Removing the throttle cover
Next get a T15 Star Drive
Remove the Fastener on the front of the throttle cover
Remove the Fastener on the front of the throttle cover
Remove the cable stays
Remove the cables by engaging the throttle and grab a hold of the loop and look for the end piece that’s slots into the rotating cam
Here you can see the end piece coming out at the throttle cam
Here I am showing both cables after extracting them
Set up a t 40 Star Drive. I use it 3/8 in extension and 3/8 inch ratchet
Next removed the aluminum tube by removing the t40 fasteners
Unplug the back of the aluminum tube where indicated here
Reach back and disconnect the map sensor. Sorry I didn’t get a better picture
Now go to the passenger side of the motor and remove the t-40 fasteners
Disconnect the vacuum hose located in the center on the passenger side of the motor
Disconnect the IAC electrical connector
Disconnect the vacuum hose on the throttle body horn
Disconnect the electrical connector that goes to the air temperature sensor
Loosen hose clamp at the rear of the motor on the passenger side
Finish removing the aluminum tube on the driver side of the motor
The aluminum tube shown removed
Remove vacuum hose located on the throttle body horn driver side
This is not stock but I added a clamp on the vacuum hoses shown because they kept sliding off. Here I am listening that clamp
Jerry’s replacement for above connector
Remove the 3 pin connector to the throttle sensor
Okay here is the tip that took me quite a while to learn. If you don’t actually have to remove the plenum you can prop it up with a long flat blade screwdriver as shown here
Another view of the plenum being propped up by a long flat blade screwdriver
If you are removing the entire plenum then reach back and disconnect the map sensor electrical
If you are removing the entire plenum then reach back and disconnect the DIS connectors

This is a view of the large flat blade screwdriver holding up the plenum. You can also see the DIS connectors because they’ve been disconnected already
Notice in the middle of this electrical connector for the DIS. There is a hardware fastener. This is pretty difficult to loosen and tighten because you have to get behind it. Picture the connector is seated fully before tightening the fastener. Also notice to the right the three pin connector with light green dirge protecting rubber. Don’t forget to plug that sucker back in. Ask me how I know.
The plenum can now be removed. Notice the long flat blade screwdriver still standing up
plenum getting ready to be cleaned before reinstall
This picture is a reference picture in case I needed to locate where something went. This picture is come in handy when people have asked where wires are routed or vacuum hoses are routed
This shows the rarely-seen and even more rarely photographed alternator bracket located at the rear of the alternator. Replacement alternators rarely have the hole necessary for mounting this bracket.
I took the time to remove all these Fasteners and put a lock washer underneath the fasteners
This is the type of lock washer I use.
A close up of things between the alternator and the AC compressor
Well I can’t remember what this was supposed to be showing so I won’t even guess
After inspecting all the vacuum hose for the secondary activating system I took time to put tie wraps on each of the Junctions. This has paid off in Spades because I haven’t had to get under the plant in over a decade looking for vacuum leaks Etc and it has panned out well over the last two decades Plus that I’ve had the car. I have had no cause to pull the plenum since 1999. What you want is for any backfire to result in the map sensor hose to come off not any hoes in the V. And of course the biggest cause of backfire is releasing the ignition switch to early when starting the motor
While I had the plan amount I fabricated this template. It’s a very rugged blue clear plastic material. The purpose of the template is to cut myself rubber gaskets. The rubber gaskets have turned out to be very resilient and have lasted almost 20 years now. Very reusable
Another innovation of mine was to add the Springs you see on the vacuum hoses that go to the map sensor Etc. Keeps them nice and snug
Reverse to replace